Sunday, March 18, 2012
In search of Irish cuisine
I am sure in Dublin there are some innovative chefs deconstructing traditional Irish food to create brilliant dishes like corned beef infused foam injected into "ravioli" made from cabbage leaves. In San Francisco they're doing Irish-Eritrean fusion at food truck called Eiretrea (I am not making that up). That said, an internet search for "gourmet irish cuisine" came up relatively empty. All of the recipes for Irish stew, corned beef and cabbage, and champ (mashed potatoes) sounded fine, but none of them sounded all that unusual or interesting. Not prepared to invent nouveau Irish cuisine on my own (my foam maker is on the fritz), I gave in and made a solid, decent, hearty meal centered around the color green and a little inspiration from my web research. We started with miniature potato pancakes, mixed with parsley (for the green) and cheddar cheese, served with green tomato jam as a garnish. To go with the pancakes, we invented two cocktails. The first, a midori-bitters-Irish whiskey concoction that I would not recommend. The second, a vodka martini with a kiss of Midori achieved its green goal and slid down a bit more easily than the first experiment. The main meal was something you might have at a quaint pub down a wooded lane outside of Killarney. A lamb stew braised in Guinness Stout (highly recommended). Champ (mashed potatoes, with chopped bacon, leeks, and spring onions). Sauteed kale. Steamed broccoli. For dessert, I channeled my inner Mrs. Patmore (Downton Abbey's cook) and made a trifle sort of thing: lady fingers soaked in Irish whiskey, a layer of rhubarb compote (it was green rhubarb), a layer of lightly sweetened whipped cream (with a zest of lime), repeated, then topped with shaved almonds. Not bad. That said, I don't think I'll be booking any trips to Dublin soon.
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