Monday, December 21, 2009

For Elisa, a simple guide to seafood stews

Occasionally at work I am looked to for my marketing acumen, but I am most satisfied when my colleagues look to me for insight into the growing, preparation and consumption of food.  Recently, as an unusual bitter freeze descended upon the Bay Area, one friend asked me for advice on protecting winter vegetables. My response was, "They're winter vegetables.  Tell them to get over it and deal."  She followed my advice and the vegetables survived, with marginal frost damage. In the summer and early fall when I pile gigantic zucchini on the table outside my office, I point people to my posting on zucchini and encourage experimentation.  One colleague, Elisa, took my zucchini and my advice and reported happy results and leftovers for days.  When she recently approached me to brainstorm about what she might cook for her visiting family over Xmas, I had a certain recommendation: Cioppino, the tomato-based seafood stew that has become a San Francisco tradition, filled with Dungeness crab and accompanied by sourdough bread.  Hearty, tomato-based seafood stews are one of my favorite things to make.  Sometimes it's got chorizo and I call it Zarazuela.  Sometimes I use herbes de provence and a lighter touch and I call it Bouillabaise.  Sometimes I start with okra and call it Gumbo.  As long as you start with fresh ingredients, you can't go wrong.  Elisa, you're going to make a great Cioppino.  And here's how:

The Seafood 
1 lb rock cod or other soft, white fish
1 lb halibut (or shark) or other firmer flesh fish
1 lb shrimp (peeled)
1 lb clams (if you like them)
2-4 Dungeness crabs, cleaned and cracked
You can vary the amounts according to the number of people you have.  Think of approximately 1/2 lb of sea food for each person and 1/2 a crab per person.

For prepping the seafood
1-2 lemons
Italian parsley
A little olive oil

The Base
One large onion (or two medium), chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1-2 red serrano chiles (or jalapenos, just good fresh redchiles)  chopped
Chile powder (optional, add a tsp or so, according to your tolerance for heat)
Black pepper
Olive oil (1/3 cup)
Optional:
2-3 links of spicy Italian sausage, chopped into 1 inch rounds
2 cans of whole peeled tomatoes
Red wine
Thyme (if fresh, two tbsp finely chopped.  if dry, a heaping tsp)

Preparing the Base
In a large stew pot, heat the olive oil, add the onions and cook until lightly browned
If using sausage, add the sausage and cook until well-browned
Add the garlic, chiles, chile powder and black pepper and cook about three to five minutes, until the chiles and garlic are soft
Add the tomatoes, crushing each tomato by hand as you add it to the pot
Bring to an active simmer
Add a healthy splash of red wine (1 cup +)
Add the thyme
Bring back to an active simmer
Allow to simmer, partially covered, for about an hour, stirring occasionally

Preparing the seafood
The fish (keep them separated, but prepare the same):
Chop the fish into 2 inch chunks, removing any bones that might be present and place into a bowl
Toss with a little olive oil, lemon juice, chopped parsley and salt and pepper

Rinse the shrimp and toss with olive oil, lemon juice, parsley, etc...

Rinse the clams and crab

Final preparation
After the base has been simmering for an hour or so (longer is fine), start adding the seafood according to the following rough timeline:

  1. 45 minutes before dinner time:  The soft white fish (it will dissolve, which is fine)
  2. 20 minutes before dinner: The hard flesh fish
  3. 10 minutes before dinner: Crab
  4. 5 minutes before dinner: Clams and shrimp
Make sure you bring the stew back to a low boil after each addition.  This is a hearty, fisherman stew, so don't worry about giving everything a big stir after you add it.  If you're using clams, make sure they open up before serving.
Don't stress out if you have trouble getting people to the table within the five minute time frame.  The key thing is to lower the heat after the clams and shrimp have been cooking for five minutes.  Just cover the stew with the heat off as people gather.

Serving
Serve in bowls with chopped parsley as a garnish and lots of sourdough bread on the side.  Have some bowls for the crab shells and lots of napkins or kitchen towels.  A few finger bowls with warm water and lemon juice wouldn't be a bad idea either.  This is a hands on experience, but well worth it.


Friday, September 11, 2009

A Story -- Kara at the Fair

This has nothing to do with cooking, but it's a story I actually finished (for a change)


Kara at the Fair
“These tunes are from my I-Pod and they rock!” Kara screamed, bumping and grinding as she greeted the next group of riders on to the Orbiter, aka the Vomit Comet, a spider-like torture device of twisting and spinning seats that rise and fall to the rhythm of blasting music.  Today that music was the gummy hip hop and grunge rock favorites of Kara, and it rocked.
The Fair was Kara’s first real job.  Two weeks of minimum wage bliss.  Pocket money.  Corn dogs, frozen custard and funnel cakes at a discount.  The steady, but harmless stares of the adult men who worked as full-time carnies.  And best of all, a steady stream of kids from school to order around.  Her authority was limited, mostly checking seat belts and height limits and the occasional call to Security for underage drinking, but she wielded that authority with dramatic flair. 
It was only her fifth day on the job and Kara was transformed.  At school her gifts were unappreciated.  Her quirky looks were not well matched to the standards of sophomore beauty.  She had been somewhat “stacked” (her words) since 7th grade, but lacked the curves or long legs needed to turn her ta-tas into a real asset.  Instead, she teetered on the edge of between blowsy and chunky.   Her main of mousy brown curls were uncontrolled unless pulled back into a scrunchy.  Her round face freckled in the sun and her chin suffered from a recurring beard of acne. By the standards of the typical fifteen year old, Kara had every reason to be miserable.
Kara compensated for her plain appearance with a bold and un-checked friendliness.   Walking through the halls of school she greeted everyone as if they were close friends.  “Great game last night!” she would shout out to Jake, the center of the basketball team.  “Love your new highlights!” she screamed to Lacey, Jake’s girlfriend.  She spread this cheer to all.  At lunchtime she was as likely to sit down with Sheila Walker’s clique of mostly black and Latina girls, “What’s up bitches?” as she was with the boys from the Drama Club, “What’s shakin’ girlfriends?” or even the Math Team, “Those losers from Eastside High miscalculated the derivative, no way!” Surprisingly, Kara generated minimal eye rolling from her peers.  For the most part she was tolerated, as one would a stray dog begging for scraps of food.
This lack of self-consciousness served her well at the Fair.  No longer begging for attention, as gatekeeper to the Orbiter she had the perfect captive audience.  With her microphone headset positioned on top of her curls, a new Kara emerged that was part lounge lizard, part DJ, part carnival barker, and all diva. She had puns.  “Get ready for the Orbiter, I’m your hostess Kara.  I’ll be spinning the tunes and…your stomachs.”  She had humor, “Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to the vomit comet.  Please keep your seat belts fastened and your corn dogs to yourself!”   And she had power.  When the fair was slow and the lines light, she would goad the riders into extra rotations, “Let me hear you scream if you want more!”  She was equally animated with exiting riders, offering high fives, hugs, and her best Mae West, “come back and see me some time.”
Every night that week Kara came home bubbling with stories to share with her parents, Mike, who supervised landscape maintenance teams for the County and Deb, who was assistant manager of the local Ace Hardware.   Sometimes the stories were about Kara’s classmates.   “Oh my God, so Susan and Chloe who are totally BFF, must have eaten a ton of that roasted corn on a stick, because when they got off of the Orbiter, Susan puked all over Chloe’s shoes, I swear to God totally yellow and corny, and Chloe was so completely pissed off but then she started laughing and I swear, some corn started coming out of her nose…”  Sometimes the stories were about strangers, “So there was this twelve year old who was acting all tough guy cholo in line but as soon as the ride starts he was totally freaking out.  We almost had to stop the ride to let him off but we only can do that if we think there is a real emergency.   When he got off the ride I could totally notice that he wet his pants.”
Mike and Deb were relieved that Kara was enjoying such a G-rated adolescence.  They were oblivious to Kara’s status as a freak, but it was Kara’s freakishness that kept away the boys, the parties, and the other opportunities to indulge in the edgier side of teenage life.   They were a bit too busy with their own lives to wonder why Kara never had friends over.  She never complained.  Her grades were fine.  She didn’t sulk.  She landed her first job all by herself.  The fact that most of her co-workers were transient ex-cons and recovering meth addicts was not front-of-mind for Mike and Deb.
And neither was it for Kara. 
Within the culture of the County Fair there was a deep divide between the “townies” – local kids like Kara – who worked the two weeks of the Fair then went on with the rest of their summer vacation, and the “roadies” who traveled from locale to locale all year long.   The roadies were cool and jaded, sleepwalking through each day of sitting at the controls of the Orbiter, changing the oil in the funnel cake fryer, or passing out cheap stuffed hippos to successful free throw shooters.  It’s hard to be animated when you host a competitive Whack-A-Mole game 12 months a year.  It’s easier when you’re doing it for a couple of weeks.  For their brief gig, the townies enthusiasm could be sustained.   The amusement industry depended on this energy.  Just like they depended on the naïve assumptions of ten year old boys who believe they can ride the Zipper four times in a row without suffering permanent vertigo.  Just like their commitment to building the perception that five dollar jumbo corn dogs should be chased by six dollar root beer floats.
Kara was not like the other townies.  She had the requisite enthusiasm, but her over-abundance of it made her stand out.  Consistent with the County Fair Employee Manual, she was committed to both “safety” and “fun” but she took it to an extreme by her daily vocal assertions, usually over the microphone at the Orbiter  that she was “working at the Fair is a BLAST!!!.”  Most of the other townies avoided her.  Most of the roadies, barely noticed her.   The one major exception was Travis, the lead brake man on the Rockin Robin, the steel framed portable roller coaster. Travis didn’t just notice Kara.  He loathed her.
Travis was six months out of the state prison where he had served 26 months for possession with intent to sell.   His parole officer got him a job with the amusement company – a plumb assignment given that it required travel throughout the state, allowing him much more freedom than the average parolee.   Travis shared a trailer, provided by the company, with Sal, another roadie who divided his time between the frozen custard concession and the traveling exhibit of the (stuffed) albino chimpanzee.   Travis and Sal barely spoke, preferring to inhabit their respective ends of the trailer in relative silence.
In general, Travis liked to keep to himself.  It was a trick he learned in prison that fit with his general outlook on life. 
The exuberant bundle of energy that was Kara was more than Travis could take.  The Orbiter and the Rockin Robin were adjacent to each other.   For the first few days of Kara’s tenure, Travis successfully blocked her out, even when she learned his name and began to greet him whenever their paths crossed. “Hello, Travis! How are things rockin on the robin?” He would smile politely, figuring that after a day or two her energy would fade, like most townies, and she would leave him alone.
The problem was that Kara’s energy didn’t fade.  His silent resistance to her charms did nothing to dissuade her.  Whether she was conscious of it or not, Kara was determined to win him over.  On the fourth day she had a new nickname for him,    “Good morning Mr. T!”  On day five, a new pun, “Did you enjoy your break from the brake!”  By day six, she offered to fetch him a snack, “Hey T, want some onion rings?”
The direct question required a response.
 “No thanks.  I don’t like onion rings.”
“Then how about some curly fries.  I love curly fries, they’re like my hair, if my hair was made out of potatoes.”
Travis grunted, and looked away.
A few minutes later, Kara appeared with two baskets of curly fries.  “Here you go, some curly fries for a surly guy!  Just kidding! You should trying smiling, T.”
He had a sudden flashback to prison.  As a new inmate, he was tested by one of the more hardcore long-timers.  “Hey pretty boy, how about a smile.”  That interaction carried a threat of violence, even rape.  The interaction with Kara bothered him more. 
“I didn’t ask for curly fries.  I didn’t ask for you to talk to me.  Please shut the fuck up and leave me alone.”
Kara did not know what to do.   Nobody ever talked to her that way.  She might detect the occasional eye roll, but most people treated her with some level of tolerance.  She gathered up the curly fries and went back to the Orbiter.
That night she got home.  Mike and Deb noticed she seemed a bit more subdued than usual.
“So, Kara, tell us about your day at the Fair,” Deb asked.
“It was awesome.”
“What happened?”
“Mom.  Dad.  I’m totally in love.”
 

Thursday, September 3, 2009

God Loves Figs

And so do I.

Fortunately the fig trees are productive.  The Brown Turkey is popping out large plump marvels.  The Mission is (finally) happily producing in its transplanted spot.  We're gathering them up every week and placing them carefully in egg cartons to transport down to the City for snacking at work.  

Fruit and savory combinations are a particular favorite of mine.  And fortunately, they are easily created in the bathroom.

I've already extolled the virtues of figs and roquefort (or goat cheese) broiled in the toaster oven, but there are other fig-based dishes that are equally adaptable.  Here are three:

Fig-ini Salad
Slice some zucchini in pencil thin slices about three inches long
Toss in balsamic vinegar and olive oil with some salt & pepper
Add some figs, sliced in 1/2 inch cubes
Toss again
Enjoy

Penne & Figs
Boil some Penne
Quarter some figs (more is better, but do it to your taste)
Crumble or grate some cheese, either blue (roquefort, gorgonzola, wisconsin blue), dry (parmesan, romano, gouda) or sharp (cheddar, gruyere, dried goat)
Chop some Italian parsley (about a quarter cup)
When done, toss the Penne in two to three tbsp of butter
Toss the figs, parsley and cheese
Enjoy as a meal OR have it as an accompaniment

The Best Hamburgers EVER
Seriously, this is the best hamburger I have ever made.  It's not at all kosher, but well worth the wrath of God.

Two lbs high quality Beef
Divide the beef into quarters (you can use less beef if you want smaller burgers)
Flatten the beef into a patty, about 1/2 inch thick
Slice a large fig in half
Stuff each half of the fig with a generous dollop of cheese (depending on your taste, use one of the aforementioned)
Place the figs, cheese side up, on the flattened patty
Grab the patty from below, and wrap the beef around the figs, forming a ball, then flattening it into a flat patty
Grill or pan fry in butter until medium (or medium rare)
Serve on a nice bun with a sliced heirloom tomato and spicy mustard

If you're vegetarian, create a black bean puree and try the same (why not?)





Sunday, March 22, 2009

Cheating Hearts and Other Guilty Staples

One factor that drives my approach to cooking in the bathroom has been limited space. Two shoe boxes worth of storage. A bar fridge. A counter top barely big enough to hold a cutting board. When my cooking in the bathroom is at its most virtuous and pure, the space limitation leads me to a focus on fresh, simple ingredients that are purchased the same day they're prepared and enjoyed. There's no room for storing processed food so therefore I don't use it. While this is generally true, there are a handful of cans and jars that occasionally make there way into the bathroom. Those jars, combined with a few key staples, have saved the day when I just don't have time to shop. Here are my secret staples:

Artichoke Hearts
I'm a big fan of fresh artichokes and love the reward of the heart at the end, but for a salad, pasta, or omelet the jarred and canned versions work just fine. I like to pair artichoke hearts with melted gruyere cheese.

Roasted Red Peppers
I've never tried roasting fresh peppers in the toaster oven. I'm sure it would work, but on a Tuesday night when it's 8:00pm and you're hungry, why bother? Chop and add them to pasta (with artichoke hearts). Puree them, sautee some garlic in olive oil, add a little milk or cream and toss the sauce with some cheese ravioli.

Canned beans
Of course I don't cook beans in the bathroom. With a can opener, some olive oil and a few spices you can have a meal in 30 seconds. I love having a wide selection of beans on hand:
> Black beans or small read beans: sauteed with onions and chile powder for chili, enchiladas or beans & rice
> White kidney beans: for minestrone soup, or just marinated with olive oil, fresh basil and finely chopped garlic
> Garbanzo beans: for a vegetable stew served over couscous
> Foul (aka fava beans): sauteed in olive oil and served with rice or pita
> Black eyed peas: sauteed with garlic and chili paste and tossed with rice for "hopping john"

A note on lentils: The one exception to the canned bean rule is lentils since they cook quickly on the stove.

Peanut Butter
I never eat PB&J for dinner, but I do like having (chunky) peanut butter around to create sauces. The most simple sauce is a couple of heaping tablespoons of peanut butter, the juice of one lime, one finely chopped garlic clove (optional), chili paste to taste. Depending on your taste and how you're going to use the sauce, you can also add a tablespoon of soy sauce. Mix together with a fork until well blended. Adjust with more lime juice or more peanut butter until the consistency is to your liking. Then, have fun. Use it as a dipping sauce for asparagus or broccoli or carrots. Toss it with some fresh chinese noodles, spinach and chicken (it should work like a salad dressing, not as a saucey pooling sauce). You can also marinade roasted tofu or chicken in it.

Coconut milk
It's not just for pina coladas. I've grown fond of coconut milk for savory dishes:

Pumpkin Stew
In a 400 degree oven, roast a small pumpkin or butternut squash (cut in half or quarters and seeded) until forkable, but not soft. This should take 30-45 minutes. Set aside and let cool.

In a large dutch oven or soup kettle, sautee one chopped onion in olive oil. Once the onion is transluscent, add two chopped garlic cloves, two tablespoons grated fresh ginger (or a tsp of dried powder), two chopped carrots, and one red pepper, cut in thin strips. You can also add a chopped jalapeno pepper or some chili pepper if you prefer things spicy. When the carrots are slightly browned, add one can of coconut milk, the juice of one lime, and two cups of water or stock. Bring to a slow simmer. Using a large tablespoon, scoop chunks of the pumpkin into the soup. Your goal is not to have the pumpkin dissolve so the chunks should not be tiny or huge -- about the size of a small scoop of ice cream. If there are bits of pumpkin left that are not scoopable, you can throw them into the soup and allow them to dissolve. Let the stew simmer on low heat for 10-15 minutes at least to allow the flavors to blend. Be sure to keep the heat low as you want to avoid having the vegetables get mushy. Season with salt according to your taste. Serve with cilantro as a garnish over steamed rice.

Peanuts, Cashews, & Pistachios
I add pistachios to couscous, cashews to stir frys, and peanuts to fried rice. I also have to admit that I nosh on them while I cook.

Monday, February 9, 2009

Kumquat, hither

Certain experiences in life require that you set aside fear or apprehension completely or risk complete and utter failure. I have never gone sky diving for this reason. As much as I might enjoy the experience of floating through the sky, I am certain that at the moment of “Geronimo!” my fear and vertigo would kick in and I would end up making a fatal mistake that would result in my chute being tangled and an unsightly demise. Speaking foreign languages follows the same rule. If I screen my high school Spanish or my collegiate French through a fear of failure filter, I mangle grammar and lose my vocabulary. If I have a glass of wine or three, or give in to the imperative to communicate, I become fluidly un-fluent, ultimately understood. This same principle is why I have never mastered skiing. The counter-intuitive requirement that you lean forward, instead of backward, to control your speed has always eluded me.

When it comes to food, this rule has wide application. You can’t chew, sip, or nibble an oyster. To enjoy an oyster, you have to suck the whole challenging mess down your gullet in a single motion. A stinky challenging cheese is, well, stinky, unless you dive in with all of your senses and allow your nose and mouth to be taken over by a hearty bite of its salty, rank goodness. Arguably, the best parts of edible crustaceans – shrimp, lobster, crabs, crayfish – are locked in the heads or guts. You can’t discover the sublime pleasure of a shrimp head by dainty measured means. You need to stick the head in your mouth and suck it.

And then there is the kumquat. At first glance, it is a miniature orange. The rind must be bitter. There can’t be much juicy flesh in such a small container. If it has seeds, they must be avoided. Maybe kumquats require cooking in a bath of sugar syrup, like a quince. Maybe they’re like an un-shelled pine nut. Will a tiny morsel of flavor be worth the burdensome effort?

In fact, there is only one way to enjoy a kumquat. Take a solid bite, if not the entire kumquat, and chew the entire contents heartily. The rind is complex. Sweet, tart, and bitter. It’s unexpected. The limited flesh is sweet and juicy, but fleeting. And then come the seeds. Do you spit them out? Or chew them. The seeds are the true revelation of the kumquat. They’re nutty. Slightly bitter. The seeds might even be a little disturbing (what are they going to do to my gullet?) That said, the seeds are an integral, additive, if not vital part of the kumquat experience.

The kumquat offers us important life lessons. Set aside fear. Take a bite. A big bite. Accept the sweet and the bitter. Accept and expect the unexpected. Don’t spit out the seeds. Karpe kumquat.